Friday, 17 April 2009

Whiter than white?


Looking at the title, you could think that I am trying to sell you some washing powder, but this is an article about using white in our paintings (Although, I write a little bit about washing later on).

Let’s go straight to the point: it is most unlikely that you will see pure white in nature. It’s all a matter of contrast and reflected lights on white objects.

White and simultaneous contrasts

The way we perceive based on context was brought home for me when I visited the last year
The Exploratorium in San Francisco. They had an experiment in the section on “seeing” where they were displaying in the dark a succession of lighted squares. When the first one appears, it looks white. Then, the second square pops-up. You see it has a lighter shade and, by comparison, the first one looks grey. It goes on and on… and you cannot believe your eyes that each new square appears lighter than the previous one.

This exhibit focuses on how the environment affects the way we see everything: colour, tone and brightness. The same goes with the light areas of your paintings.




The checker shadow illusion is also a striking way to remind us that our brain is easily tricked into seeing as different tones that are identical, based on the context.



Square A and B seem to be of a different shade



The two vertical bars show you that, in fact, square A and B share the same shade of grey

You can read an
excellent explanation of this illusion by Edward H. Adelson from the Department of Brain and Cognitive Sciences at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.


What colour is your white?

White surfaces act as a screen where the coloured light and surrounding object can reflect. For this reason, you will have bluish whites or yellowish whites depending on the time of the day and the quality of the light.

Using a palette of light colours rather than pure white out of the tube makes your painting more interesting in subtle ways. The modulation creates movement and interest and stays closer to real life.

In fact, there may be some cultural influences on how we perceive the quality of the tinted white as white. Washing powders contain some agents to make white a little bit blue. Historically, people noticed that it did not matter how well they washed them, white fabrics always had a slight yellow shade. Physicists found that you could neutralise this yellow colour by adding some ultramarine blue to the rinsing water. This habit stayed and we today perceive white fabrics with a slight blue shade as fresher and whiter.

In practice

We talked about how our eyes perceive reality. How does that translate in practical terms?


  • It is a good idea to use a piece of white card to judge the brightness and whiteness of an object you are painting.


  • Remember that pure white is rare in nature and that a good way to make light colours appear lighter is by simultaneous contrast (of tone, colour and brightness).


  • A coloured ground, in particular with a mid-tone or neutral colour, will make it easier than a white ground to set the lighter tones at the correct level.


  • Tinted whites (with blue, pink, yellow, etc.) offer endless possibilities to make your light areas more interesting.

To end this article, I will leave you with what Ambroise Vollard remembered in his book “Recollection of an Art dealer”:

“Later on, I happened to hear Renoir talk about a white on white effect that he was trying to render.
- It is pretty difficult, he said, but nothing is more exciting to paint nor provides a nicer effect.”

Vollard (and probably Renoir) did not explain what this effect consisted of, so we will all have to go to the museums and study carefully any Renoir’s painting we can find in order to try to see and understand this effect.


Related articles

White or white?



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Tuesday, 14 April 2009

Ferry crossing



We went to France during the bank holiday week-end. I just had time to draw during the Channel crossing on the ferry.

One of my daughter's soft toy dog.




Upper deck on the ferry





One of the passengers taking a nap




The sewing kit



Tuesday, 7 April 2009

Underpainting for pastel

This article was first published in "Frequency Magazine" – April 2009.


The underpainting is, as its name tells, the layer underneath the upper surface of your final work. Although it is only meant to be a stage in the process, underpainting gives you a solid foundation for your pastel and set the mood of the overall painting. Part of the underpainting will show through the pastel strokes and change their appearance by simultaneous contrast.

When using an underpainting, you need to consider the archival consequences (would the work be damaged over time?) and if the substrate you use is suitable for a particular technique.

Underpainting with pastel: a common way to create an underpainting with pastel is to lay colours using broad strokes with the side of your pastels sticks and then to blend the marks in order to obtain a soft background to build upon. You can brush the pigments with a stiff brush loaded with water or rubbing alcohol. Different brand of pastel will react in different ways to water and alcohol, so it is a good idea to test beforehand. After establishing the underpainting with pastels, I like to apply a light spray of fixative. This way, the underpainting is not disturbed by later work on the surface and you don’t end-up with muddy colours, in particular if you are using complimentary colours in your underpainting. If you apply any liquid for blending, you need to use a heavy paper (or a board) so that the surface does not buckle.



I laid the colours for the underpainting of Cardiff Gallery, using broad strokes and the side of pastel sticks



The pastel pigments are blended together after a wash of rubbing alcohol applied with a soft brush.



Underpainting with watercolour: This is a good technique if you use watercolour paper as your support. As already mentioned, use a paper sturdy enough so that it does not buckle, some pre-mounted paper or a pastel board. Paint freely with a large brush, wet on wet. Let the paint flows: you are preparing the ground for your pastel, not painting a watercolour.




Watercolour underpainting for Bluebell wood - As the paper was prepared with Colorfix pastel gesso, the surface was waterproof and the watercolour did not react as usual.



Underpainting with gouache or acrylic: Gouache or acrylic work well for underpainting. The difference with watercolour is that you can obtain opaque layers of paint. You must be careful to paint thinly, otherwise the paint will fill the texture of the pastel paper and the paper will not hold pastel pigments.

Underpainting with oil paint: The first precaution to take is to make sure that the support you use can take oil. If you are using paper, this means applying some gesso to protect the paper from the chemicals in the paint. Use oil paint thinned with turpentine or mineral spirit and let the colours drip and mix together. You must paint thinly to retain the tooth of the surface. The advantage of this method is that the oil paint used in thin washes will dry quickly. As mineral spirit can soften adhesive, it is better to use this technique on unmounted primed paper.


Oil underpainting for Summer Walk


Make sure your underpainting is fully dry before you continue with the next stage of your pastel painting.

The choice of colours and tones for your underpainting depends on the effect you want to achieve. Here are four options to explore:

1. Create a monochromatic underpainting. For a snow landscape, you could select a pastel paper tinted with a mid-range neutral colour (grey for instance) and use a dark colour as underpainting to block in trees and rocks. This will make it easier to get the correct tones and colours for the snow and highlights.

2. Another option is to use a contrasting colour temperature in your underpainting. Staying with our snow landscape, you could use red, orange and yellow in your underpainting in order to make the blue strokes sing.

3. Use colours which are similar to the ones in the final painting. To make this work, you need to create some type of contrast with the final layer, either by using contrasted tones in your underpainting or by keeping it loose and soft.

4. Paint colours randomly across the whole surface. Provided you keep the number of colours low to preserve some unity, this technique may produce interesting effects if the underpainting shows through the final layer.

As always, you need to try and experiment in order to find the techniques that fit your style. However, don’t get stuck with a single technique because they all serve different purposes.


Related articles

Getting started with pastel

Framing pastel drawings and paintings

Product test - Colourfix pastel primer


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Friday, 3 April 2009

Art DIY week-end project – Part 2

My post on Art DIY week-end project gets many visits, so I though I should publish another compilation with more Do It Yourself (DIY) gems I found since then on the Internet.


Jim Serrett (make sure you also visit his studio blog ) is doing a wonderful job showing how to build yourself some nice painting boxes. Two great posts not to miss and a blog to keep an eye on:

Wet Canvas offers a number of very good tutorials:



Richard McKinley, on Pastel Pointers, explains how to mount pastel paper in two different ways:






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Wednesday, 1 April 2009

Taxi in China Town - oil painting



This is a scene from San Francisco, just on the border of China Town. I just like these yellow taxis, which bring a dash of colour.